Short answer: Boat rewiring cost is driven by labor hours at $140–$200/hr in Long Beach. Re-running a single circuit typically costs $200–$600, replacing a DC or AC distribution panel about $1,500–$4,000 with parts, and a full rewire of a 35–40 ft boat often runs well into five figures, which is why most owners rewire in stages.
Long Beach Marine Electric connects boat owners with marine electricians for rewiring, and this guide explains boat rewiring cost the way the work is actually priced: by scope and hours. No published survey of Long Beach rewiring prices exists, so the ranges below are typical labor hours multiplied by the $140–$200 hourly rate that 2026 marine-electrician rate data supports, plus materials. They’re estimates to plan with. Your electrician prices each stage in writing.
Rewiring cost by stage
| Stage | Typical labor | Labor at $140–$200/hr | Plus materials |
|---|---|---|---|
| Re-run one circuit (e.g. bilge or nav light) | 1–3 hrs | $140–$600 | Cable, terminals, breaker |
| Battery cables, switch and main DC fusing | 4–8 hrs | $560–$1,600 | Heavy cable, fuses, switch |
| DC distribution panel replacement | 8–16 hrs | $1,120–$3,200 | Panel, bus bars, breakers |
| AC panel and shore-power path | 8–16 hrs | $1,120–$3,200 | Panel, ELCI, inlet, isolator |
| Cabin and accessory circuits | Varies by count | Varies | Cable, fixtures |
A complete rewire of a 35- to 40-foot cruising boat is the sum of these stages and more, and it commonly runs into hundreds of labor hours. That puts it well into five figures, which is why it’s normally staged over a season or two.
Why rewiring costs what it does
The wire itself is a small part of the bill. Tinned, UL 1426 marine cable costs more than automotive wire, but the hours go into:
- Tracing what each existing wire does, on boats where decades of add-ons were never documented.
- Access: opening lockers, headliners and engine compartments, and putting them back.
- Routing and support: cable runs secured along their length, protected where they pass bulkheads, kept away from heat and moving parts.
- Termination: ratcheted crimps and adhesive heat-shrink on every end, with overcurrent protection sized to the wire.
- Labeling and testing: both ends labeled, voltage drop tested on critical circuits under load.
Staging a rewire
Most owners rewire in this order, so each stage leaves the boat safer and fully working:
- Batteries and main DC distribution. This is where the highest currents and the most fire risk are.
- Critical circuits: bilge pumps, navigation lights and electronics, held to ABYC E-11’s 3% voltage-drop limit.
- AC panel and shore-power path, including an ELCI and galvanic protection.
- Cabin and accessory circuits.
When repair beats rewiring
Not every old boat needs a full rewire. If cutting back problem wires shows clean copper an inch or two in, targeted repairs are fine. If the copper is black or green deep inside the jacket, faults keep moving, or a surveyor has flagged non-marine wire and missing overcurrent protection, staged rewiring costs less over time than chasing faults one at a time.
Bottom line
Budget a few hundred dollars per circuit, low thousands per panel, and five figures for a complete rewire, and spread the work across stages. Ask for a written price per stage. Start with a survey of the panels and problem circuits: see boat rewiring or call (562) 374-7233 for a same-day callback.
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